A Change In the Weather

Guest Post by Hardscrabble Farmer

For the past several nights the predators have staged a comeback. We’ve had several years of peace on that front since our last serious run-in with them and there has been, I’m sorry to say, a complacency on my part. Living as we do and where we do was a conscious decision on our part. I prefer to deal with the challenges of the Natural world at a comfortable distance from the heavily populated urban centers for a reason and so we deal with a different set of exigencies.

One of the first years we lived up here we lost nine lambs to coyotes in less than a week. I hadn’t developed the skills nor the resolve to deal with the situation and after all those years it still grieves me to think of that failure on my part to do what I should have when I had the opportunity. I made a point to find someone who knew how handle that kind of situation and who had a reputation for being one of the most skilled and talented woodsmen in the area and asked him for his advice. He was gracious enough to allow me to work with him and to watch him handle similar situations and in time I had picked up enough to handle the problems we faced with some degree of efficacy.

Over time we pushed back our forest wall through selective cutting, expanded the range of our grazing for the cattle, brought in our flocks for lambing season and kept them under our watch and protected by a larger pack of guardian dogs than we had before. We used the hogs at the edge of the property to serve as a screen from the predators because we’d discovered that even bear are spooked by half-ton boars with six inch tusks. One trick I taught myself, almost by accident. When we slaughtered chickens I discovered that the scent of blood and viscera drew the coyote packs in from the State land to the west- you could hear them yipping and howling all night long during that week- and so I would dump the waste just over the big rock walls, mounds of feathers, entrails and chicken heads then rinse out the big tubs with water from the stream.

The first few nights they’d clean up every scrap and keep their respectful distance from the farm proper. On the third night I had much less to dispose of and so I took the time to set traps all around the offal and sure enough in the first light of the next morning there were the swollen bodies of well fed coyotes fixed in place by old steel jaws, waiting for their dispatch. I did this for three years solid, every Summer when it was time to fill the freezer with fat broilers and on the third July I discovered something I hadn’t been expecting. While the remains on the far aide of the wall were cleaned up entirely, the piles on our side were untouched and the traps empty. They’d learned to keep to their side because the cost to their pack was more than the reward was worth to tempt a crossing.

You learn a great deal from seeing the same things over a very long period of time. Some secrets are kept simply because you haven’t taken the time to really pay attention to what is right in front of your eyes all along. For almost ten years I have been bringing a fifteen acre pasture back into shape by the regular addition of composted manure, seeding with vetches and clover. On the eastern side of the pasture is a long, low drumlin covered in red pine and white oak and the cows prefer to lounge there because of the shade the trees cast out into the deep green grass.

There is a beautiful view of that aspect of the field every single time you come down the north face from the hay barn and every time I do I have noticed that there is an undulating line of superior growth interspersed regularly with a weakness in the soil, a sine wave that follows the base of the eskar from the sand pit at the bottom to the massive bull pine at the crest. I have made a hundred trips back and forth with one load after another, wood ash to sweeten the soil, manure to feed it and still that undulating line of green remains, vexing me.

This year the drought was extreme and we have yet to come out of it despite the last couple of rains. A deep dry period reveals a lot in a landscape and as Autumn approached the weak trees were the first to go, their top branches dumping leaves unceremoniously, without color. Some of the biggest older ash and maples have given up their infirmity, skeletal branches rising up in the cerulean sky signalling their surrender. These will have to be felled this Winter after snow falls for next years firewood and to give some space to the new growth in the understory below. It pains me to see these ancient ones go, but that is the way things are and their sacrifice after all these years will serve others well, the stored up energy of 100,000 days of sunlight let loose in flames at night in half a dozen hearths across our village.

The fields have done remarkably well considering and I take pride in having rebuilt the tilth of the soil to such a degree that the cattle still graze contentedly this late into the season. One day a few weeks ago I stopped to just look at the field from a vantage point across the brook. The dogs had settled around me in the shade and as they gazed off at whatever it was that caught their attention I suddenly saw what I had been missing all along. The curving line of dark green and weaker growth along the base of the hill beneath the grazing Herefords had nothing at all to do with soil quality, but with the shade patterns of the old growth on the flank of the hill.

You could see clearly the way the light traced the edges of the treetops on the flattened surface of the big field, inclining as the Sun made it’s way to the western horizon. Part of the field spent more time in the cool darkness where the soil held the moisture longer and where there were gaps between the big stands of hardwood and conifers the field suffered under the bleaching light of day. All the manure on Earth wouldn’t have changed the pattern even if I had laid it down with mathematical precision and I may never have seen the cause and effect if I hadn’t taken that moment to simply pause in my day and behold a world that worked ceaselessly with or with me.

Last night when I came in there was a message on the refrigerator scrawled in my youngest son’s handwriting, a local phone number that I didn’t recognize and a woman’s name. I called and after a few rings she picked up and I told her who I was. She said that she was John Fortune’s daughter and that he had passed away on Wednesday and she thought I might like to know. I expressed my condolences and asked about the funeral arrangements and we said our goodbyes and then hung up the phone. I sat down at the desk for the longest time and thought about the old man and the times he had come up to visit since we’d moved here.

I met him almost by accident and discovered that he had worked on our farm when he was in his teens, driving a team of horses to collect maple sap every Spring in the snow, spending countless hours in the cold collecting bucket after bucket on the hillsides and then turning the team back to the sugar shack at the end of each day. Later he had run the operation with the owner of the farm and another man and this I know because of the cache of bucket lids I found under a granite ledge, each one stenciled in orange letters- V.F.M. The F stood for Fortune, the M for Maxfield, the owner of the farm and the V?

Neither man could remember due to age I supposed. Jack Maxfield passed away a couple of years ago but he visited us when he could and always thanked me for buying the farm from him even though there were several owners before I came along. His memory was not so good, but every time he came up the hill a lot of it came back and he would tell me stories about raising his family, hunting deer, treating patients in his home office where he doctored the small community in the years after the war. I showed him the bucket lids with the mysterious V. and he shook his head saying that he only remembered John Fortune and all the times they had spent making syrup and filling the gallon tins with sweet liquid in the earliest days of Spring before anything poked through the snow.

The old sugar house, much larger than the one I built to replace it was nothing but a foundation now, but once when I was pulling artifacts of the old times out of it, stumbled across some boards that had penciled writing on them. I pieced the boards together and then mounted them on the storage tank in the new sugar house, the records of the sugar operation going back to 1903; first tap, tapped out, buckets hung, gallons produced. This glimpse gave me an indication of what to expect from out own attempts and they were remarkably similar.

The average start date from the beginning of the last century to the opening years of this one is still March 3rd, the number of taps has increased from 1,078 at it’s 1932 height then to almost 1,800 today, but that would be expected with the new lines and the growth of the new stock over the years. Last season, a couple of years after Dr. Maxfield has passed and while John Fortune was still alive I noticed something else I had overlooked. In 1952 the number of buckets dropped from it’s high by exactly 200. I thought on this for a while and one night it came to me. That was likely the year that V., whoever he was, had taken his buckets and gone home.

The next time I saw John Fortune at the corner store nursing his coffee I brought that up and asked if maybe he remembered. He stood there in that befuddled way he had, still farming at 92 years old and nursing a bad shoulder from when the tractor rolled over on him the year before in the snow and his eyes lit up. He had remembered, but whoever it was he wasn’t sharing it with me and I let him keep that secret to himself. V. is just an initial on a sap bucket, a mystery that will never be solved now.

It was cold last night. There was steam rising in a column from the surface of the trout pond down at the bottom of the field and when I lay down to sleep I could barely move my right knee from the stiffness. I slept with the window open all night and dreamed about the kinds of things that old men dream about I suppose. Before dawn the yipping of the coyotes awoke me from my sleep and all the dark thoughts that have been swirling around because of the season, the climate, the change in the weather all filled that room with a sense of dread.

The dogs took up after them, I could hear the sound of their furious paws galloping across the back yard heading off in the direction of the predators, the whole pack on a mission until I couldn’t hear them at all. There was a scant breeze that rattled the papery leaves of the maples in the dim light and I lay there in bed next to my sleeping wife and for the first time in a long while I wondered about the future. The weather is supposed to be stellar for the next few days and the leaf peepers will be up in force to see the blazing reds and yellows spread across the hillsides, offering an escape from the urban environments where other predators lurk.

I don’t suppose that the changes coming will be anything new in the bigger sense of the world, but they will alter the landscape just the same. These movements from one season to the next, the ceaseless pendulum swing from one extreme to another are constantly visible but they conceal their own secrets for a very long time, in some cases forever. I wish I understood a great deal more than I do about how we wound up where we are in this particular moment in history and where it is that we are heading, but that’s not likely.

I also think that there is not a great deal of difference between V.F.M. and U.S.A. and one day when I have long forgotten someone may ask me in my befuddled old age if I remember what the U. stood for a glimmer may come to my eyes as well but I will probably respond the way John did, gingerly holding his paper cup of coffee in a shaking hand and offer no answer at all.


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26 Comments
Maggie
Maggie
September 24, 2016 1:31 pm

Another wonderful piece of prose, HSF. It is always a pleasure to open up the page and see you’ve penned another piece.

starfcker the deplorable
starfcker the deplorable
September 24, 2016 2:09 pm

Great piece. My biggest regrets in life involve not protecting certain things with the force and clarity nessesary. Those are hard lessons. And they will change you as a man. Good to learn them early. I often wonder about some of the people who wish for conflict, wish for anarchy, yet cry foul at the sight of anybody imposing their will on anything. In those kind of times, the learning curve will be too steep for most, and survivability is a pass/fail. Keep up the good work, HSF, this is one of your best.

Frank Ruegg
Frank Ruegg
September 24, 2016 2:19 pm

Count me in for another order come Spring 17. Would love to see some pictures of your farm when you post. You make it sound like such a wonderful and spiritually rewarding way of life, even if it is physically and financially difficult at times.

Farmer Frank

SaamiJim.
SaamiJim.
September 24, 2016 2:49 pm

HSF,
Thank you, another wonderful essay.
After 49 years in greater suburbia, my wife and I moved to a sparsely populated county that had its peak in perhaps the 60’s or early 70’s. Your writing is always appreciated.

Suzanna
Suzanna
September 24, 2016 3:36 pm

HSF,

What a lovely read to herald the fall season.
(if you have time, put a heating pad on your
sore knee for a bit. It can really help)

Suzanna

Annie
Annie
September 24, 2016 3:51 pm

There’s nothing like watching one or more livestock guardian dogs racing towards a threat at top speed to protect their people, their animals, and their property. Thank you for reminding me of that.

Francis Marion
Francis Marion
September 24, 2016 3:56 pm

HSF – if I lived closer I’d help you with your yote’ problems. We had similar issues with wolves (and bears) in the north when I lived there. I feel for ranchers and farmers who are so tied up with managing the day to day of their operations that they can’t take the time to make controlling predators a part of their routine. People don’t realize it but for agricultural outfits not being able to control them is the equivalent of having your business ransacked a few times a year.

When I was younger we used to go out to local ranches and farms to help some of the guys out. It was recreation for us and damage control for them. Sometimes if we were productive we’d get invited back for deer, moose or elk season. So I learned how to howl years ago and I’ll tell you I found it is pretty effective when used in concert with a “dying rabbit” squall type call. In the process of running the two side by side we found that lots of other critters – bears, coyotes, lynx and even occasionally elk would respond to the rabbit end of the equation. It probably seems counter intuitive to call them into your land but if you are good at it you can kill them with an efficiency that might surprise you, taking you and your critters from being on the defensive to the offensive. The problem is finding the time to do it.

But sometimes being on the offensive makes sense. It’s something we have to think about as time moves on.

Thanks for writing. Enjoyed this piece very much.

starfcker the deplorable
starfcker the deplorable
  Francis Marion
September 25, 2016 12:10 am

Francis, you’re the best. If i ever have a serious predator problem, you would be the guy, no question. You make Canada sound so fun. “We were walking (driving, etc.) along drinking a beer, and we saw a (fill in the blank canadian critter) so we shot it. And we ate it.” And you guys have some huge animals up there. I was looking at some pictures of B.C. mountain lions the other day and they are literally twice as big as the ones we have. Same with bears, and deer. Our coyotes are quite a bit bigger, practically wolves. But you guys have wolves. If i ever go hunting again, it will be in Canada. Looks awesome

Francis Marion
Francis Marion
  starfcker the deplorable
September 25, 2016 12:11 pm

You should see the size of our wolves. North of 200 pounds – bigger with a gut full of meat. We caught a kill once on video back in the days of tape. I howled it out onto a power line in the mountains west of town. We got it in to about 400 yards and it started to get cautious so we started chirping on the rabbit call. We were uphill and in a patch of willows – it couldn’t see or smell us and it locked onto us and that rabbit call like a heat seeking missile. It came at a trot at first then started to pick up momentum the closer it got. You can hear me on the video as it closes in at a gallop telling buzzard to shoot, shoot, shoot….. he pulled the trigger on his 300 at about 80 yards and dumped it. It was a small one by our standards – about 120 to 140 Lb’s but had a real nice blackish coat. Buzzard tanned it and still has it at home up north laying over the back of his sofa. We spent the rest of the afternoon howling back and forth with the rest of the pack but after the rifle shot they got wise and would not come out onto the power line. If I can find the video I’ll see if I can get my son to move it over to digital and I’ll post it. It was pretty cool.

FWIW we never drank a lot of beer etc when we were out and about. Buzzard was native and allergic to the shit in his native way and he knew it. Booze is bad news for a lot of injuns. The smart ones avoid it. Buzzard was/is a smart guy and I never seen a drop touch his lips. He was an engineer by trade. You don’t get that far in life by being stupid I guess.

But you’re right – we had a lot of fun when I was growing up. I don’t get out to red neck around as much living in the PNW – but we still have our spots and our times and I’ve positioned myself in an area that allows for easy access to the back country when I need it. It helps keep me sane.

IndenturedServant
IndenturedServant
  Francis Marion
September 25, 2016 2:23 pm

“You should see the size of our wolves. North of 200 pounds…”

That’s no shit. I saw two wolves in the back of a pickup once that FILLED the truck bed. Most bars up here in north Idaho & NW MT have cork boards covered in images of wolf kills that are truly scary.

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Compared to a Grizzly Bear:

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Francis Marion
Francis Marion
  IndenturedServant
September 25, 2016 2:34 pm

That’s what I’m talking about.

Those are the big boys.

It’s easy to see how a few of them can pull down a full grown 1200 Lb moose.

starfcker the deplorable
starfcker the deplorable
  IndenturedServant
September 25, 2016 3:10 pm

IS, I don’t know how to post pics, if you can, look up BC mountain lions and there are tons of similar pics of hunters bear hugging them. Post a few if you would. They are the size of jaguars. I don’t think people realize how big this stuff gets.

Francis Marion
Francis Marion
  starfcker the deplorable
September 25, 2016 3:24 pm

Like these pussy cats?

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Funny story,

I was out walking my dog along the river behind my house about two years ago and I bumped into a couple of conservation officers with shotguns. They stopped me and asked me if I had seen any cougars in the area. I said: “You’ll have to be more specific. Two legged or four? There seems to be lots of both around these days…” The guy laughs and tells me to be careful, the four legged variety had wandered into the area. I could hear them chuckling as we went opposite directions.

The two legged variety are expanding their territory constantly these days. For single, middle aged men it has become a target rich environment. I have a life long ban on hunting them – under penalty of death I am told. 🙂

IndenturedServant
IndenturedServant
  starfcker the deplorable
September 25, 2016 3:26 pm

They look normal sized to me but I live in the PNW. We get some younger cougars that come into populated areas but they tend to be smaller due to age. I came across a dead cougar on the side of the road out in the desert of central WA one day. I parked next to it and counting the tail, it was just 3 or 4 feet shorter than my truck. (75 Ford F-250)

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Unspoken
Unspoken
September 24, 2016 5:34 pm

The “U” is forgotten and the predators are howling. Yessir.

I enjoy burning ash. For most hardwoods, I won’t burn it in the house unless it’s fully seasoned. But with ash, if it’s been stored in a dry environment, it burns pretty well even after only 4 months or so. Plus a lot of ash trees are being taken down prior to the forthcoming invasion of the Emerald Ash Borer, so it is plentiful where I live currently.

Winter is coming.

Smoke Jensen
Smoke Jensen
September 24, 2016 8:38 pm

Thank you HSF. Wonderful story, beautifully told.

warts
warts
September 24, 2016 10:37 pm

This is not Hardscrabble, no way. If it is……well it just isn’t.

Anonymous
Anonymous
  warts
September 25, 2016 12:01 am

Oh, it’s Hardscrabble all right. Ya’ see, there’s a part of him that laments controlling the coyotes, because he wants to let all God’s creatures be. It’s a conflict that bedevils every good man who ever lived, and thought.
So, he realizes he has to forego some of his ‘goodness’ in order that his own survive- and this is the issue that drives each of us- we can’t be ‘good’ all the time if we and ours are to prosper. It’s a paradox that your average 9-to-Fiver will never encounter, and certainly never understand.

starfcker the deplorable
starfcker the deplorable
  Anonymous
September 25, 2016 10:54 pm

Love the post, anon

John Coster
John Coster
September 25, 2016 9:57 am

I hear the coyotes often, and frankly, they give me hope. Partly because they are not really coyotes. In the Northeast, the wild canines we see are a mix of wolf and coyote and with the occasional domestic dog sometimes adding in some genes. They are a modern hybrid of formerly distinct species, understood by biologists to have evolved in Quebec about a century ago when remnants of our original wolf population mated with coyotes that had been migrating into the region. Now they have increased their range dramatically. I have heard their strange yipping and howling in the wee hours while in the suburbs of Connecticut as well as up here in the hills of Vermont or in western Mass. Several nights back they were so loud they woke me from a deep sleep. I worry about my partner’s little Yorkie, but even a dog must accept some risk in order to live a worthwhile life. As for these new hybrids, “coywolves” as the are sometimes called, they have reclaimed much of the territory their ancestral wolves were driven from. They have evolved and adapted with dramatic success. As more and more humans become domesticated and fenced in by corporate government, I do take heart knowing that these wild creatures have found a way to survive and escape extermination. Even if we sometimes must skirmish with them ourselves. The county forester recommends deer hunting since the deer are eating many of the new saplings springing up where the loggers harvested the forest two years ago. The coyotes are happy to oblige. I do wonder what they are saying to each other during these nocturnal gatherings.

Gryffyn
Gryffyn
September 25, 2016 11:18 am

HSF, your writing is thought provoking and usually stirs up some memories for me. When my wife and I bought our first little farm in the southern highlands, in the early 1970s, we never saw a white-tailed deer on the property during the three years we lived there. We moved to a larger, more remote place and by the mid 70s we began seeing an occasional deer or two. Then the population literally exploded. They were everywhere. We fenced in the garden. They nibbled and destroyed much of the diverse ground cover in the woods and along the edges of fields. They ran into cars and trucks on the highway. Though their natural predators, wolves and cougars, had been killed off long ago their population had been kept in check by human hunters. It was normal for local schools to close on the opening day of deer season because no boys would attend school on that most sacred of days. I don’t know what caused the massive increase in the deer population. People moved away to take good paying jobs in other states. Old farms were abandoned and fields grew up in brush. The DNR closed the deer hunt in some counties and restricted it elsewhere. Whatever was holding their numbers in check suddenly became ineffective.
Enter the coyotes. They had never ever been heard or seen around here. Over the years they have grown large in size and their numbers increased, feeding on baby deer and groundhogs. There are still a lot of white tails, though not so many. For many years the wood chucks were annihilated. But now, like the predators returning to your farm after a long absence, the ‘chucks have returned. So far this year I have only seen a few young ones, but I expect more next year. Once again the balance is shifting.
John Coster, I did not see your comment when I submitted mine, which had been sitting on the computer for several hours. Many years ago an article in Outdoor Life suggested there was a new wolf-coyote hybrid in New England. Experts scoffed and claimed it was impossible for wolves and coyotes to breed. Then people started creating wolf dogs. My own dog is 6 1/4% wolf, just enough to be a great companion wherever I go, whether in the woods or in town.

CA
CA
September 25, 2016 12:44 pm

When there’s lots of deer, the wolves have plenty of food. They breed and decimate the deer population. Then they die off and the deer return. Basic cycle.

yahsure
yahsure
September 25, 2016 4:42 pm

Just today my daughter told me of her finding the remains of a mountain lion.Close to home. Made me wonder what ate it? I guess a bear. Plenty of them in northern AZ.

Anonymous
Anonymous
  yahsure
September 25, 2016 10:47 pm

Ants. Quite simply, ants. They eat everything.

DaBirds aka Deplorable DaBird
DaBirds aka Deplorable DaBird
September 26, 2016 10:37 am

HSF, don’t remember how I discovered your website, but thanks for all thought and memory provoking essays.

When we raised replacement heifers, invariably some would die. (Holsteins seem to have none of the resolve and fortitude of Jerseys). We would haul the carcasses to the furthermost back pasture. There, the ever present coyotes would strip them to bone within a few days. It was a beneficial relationship keeping them sated while keeping the barn disease free. Rarely would they venture closer as the dogs and my .223 discouraged such behavior.
Sold the old place due to health issues but your essays always remind me of all I loved about those precious acres. Thanks again!

BUCKHED
BUCKHED
September 26, 2016 12:33 pm

HSF..another great story.

In May I went to Upper Wyoming to turkey hunt. Prior to the trip a person from the airline said that I could place my shotgun shells in the gun case with my shotgun. Well, I knew they had Grizzly bears out there so I placed some loose buckshot in the case as well as the turkey loads which were in their original box.

When the lady from the airline looked in the case she saw the loose buckshot and said that they had to be in a box to be legal . Oh well,I called my wife and told her to come back and get them…which she did.

I got to the ranch and lamented to the owner that I didn’t have any buckshot in case I encountered a Grizzly . He told me that they hadn’t had bears in that area in 50 or so years. Boy was I glad of that fact!

Then he told me,” We do have a lot of cougars though with some going better than 200 pounds” . WOW ! I got some buckshot that afternoon .