POOR MAN’S CAR BUYING ADVICE

This is for Clammy but it should work for anyone. She goes by Stephanie Shepard these days but she’ll affectionately remain Clammy to many of us who welcomed her to TBP by beating her into submission. She had a rough start here but she is tough as nails. She’s twice as tough and more intelligent than Peter Harris, Doug Becker and Robert S. Finnegan ever will be……even in their dreams!

I believe I first came across this idea on the radio from one of those financial advice gurus. Not the flim flam artists but the ones who offer realistic advice that if followed diligently, will pay off. I believe it was Dave Ramsey but I’m too lazy to check.

Anyway, this is a method that will allow you to upgrade your car every 12-18 months or so without going into debt and also allow you to end up in a brand new car in five years or less with no debt.

The first step is to be happy with what you’ve got because you’re going to need it a bit longer. In the event you don’t have a car then you need to scrape up whatever you can to purchase the best you can afford for now whether that’s a bicycle, bus pass or $500 model POS (piece of shit) hoopty. If you can’t scrape up $500-$1500 to get started then this method would never work for you in a million years because you have no discipline.

So, starting with the best model POS you currently have or can afford, you need to head on down to your local used car dealer to do a little dreaming and number crunching. Don’t worry, you won’t be signing or buying anything on this trip.

Tell the salesman you need a basic, reliable car to get from A to B and back to A again. Creature comforts are irrelevant at this point. You just need basic, reliable transportation at this point. Once you spot a vehicle or two that meets this criterion you need to find out how much this model POS will cost you on a monthly basis. If you can’t afford that amount then keep looking until you find something you can afford.

The second step is to go back to your miserable life driving your current model POS while simultaneously paying yourself the amount of car payment you can afford. Pretend you already owe the finance company or bank that much every month and simply pay yourself. The goal is to be your own bank!

I truly have no idea how much a basic A to B & back to A again car would cost but lets just assume $300/month. At the end of the year you will have $3600 in cash saved up plus your current model POS and you will have two options. 1. Continue to drive the current POS while continuing to save $300/month.  2. Or, go buy a better POS for $3600 and continue to pay yourself $300/month. If your current car is reliable enough to drive for another year, then do so. If not, sell it for whatever you can get and add that money to the $300/month you’re already saving.

Step three is to repeat step two, four more times. At the end of each year simply evaluate whether the current model POS you’re driving will make it another year and if so, continue driving it while paying yourself that car payment you would enslaved yourself to pay by going into debt. If you choose to upgrade, the resale value of your upgrade should be higher each time and you can bank the money from each sale to afford a better upgrade next time. With each passing year you’ll have an additional $3600 plus the car you’re driving.

That’s basically it. Lather. Rinse. Repeat. I did exactly that without ever upgrading. In July of 1999 when I bought my current POS daily driver, a ’86 Toyota 4Runner. I paid $1500 cash for it and every single month since then I’ve paid myself $600. Next month will mark 17 years exactly since I bought that 4Runner and the $600/month I did not spend on car payments pencils out to $122,400.00. If you subtract the roughly $5k I may have spent on maintenance and repairs, I’m still $117,000 to the plus side, I never went into debt and I enjoyed reliable albeit ugly transportation the entire time. Along the way I found that keeping my current model POS was preferable to spending my money to upgrade.

I don’t think I actually spent 5 grand on maintenance and repairs but $5k plus the $1500 original purchase price means that 17 years of transportation only cost me about $382 per year plus gas, insurance and registration.

Even if you have to spend $600 one month on tires, brakes or some other repair, that is still far cheaper than being obligated to paying a loan every month PLUS the cost of repairs.

Along with the above advice I would strongly suggest you find a reliable mechanic if you know nothing about cars. Any car you decide to buy should be taken to this mechanic for evaluation, prior to purchase. A fair garage shouldn’t charge more than $100. Yeah, I know, you’re already broke but that $100 could save you thousands. I do most of my own maintenance on cars but I have a reliable mechanic anyway and I hook him up. For instance, when we bought my wife’s truck a few years back I didn’t have time to inspect a bunch of cars so I called my mechanic. He works for a local garage for wages and it’s the garage that gets paid for him inspecting the vehicle so I always ask to speak to the mechanic directly and quietly slip him $50 cash each time he checked a car out for me in addition to paying the garage. I slipped him $100 cash when we found a keeper and I slip him cash every time he does any other work for me. He fucking LOVES to see me or my wife come in and he treats us right. A good, reliable mechanic is worth his weight in gold. Treat him right and he’ll treat you right.

A good mechanic can also let you know which years, brands and models to avoid and chances are he can locate a reliable car for you though a private party sale which should save you a bunch of money.


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19 Comments
hardscrabble farmer
hardscrabble farmer
June 17, 2016 7:05 am

Is it? Is it an honor Doug?

I do not think that word means what you think it means.

Rob in Nova Scotia
Rob in Nova Scotia
June 17, 2016 7:12 am

Doug

You’re back for some more. So I’m going to try this again. You seem to think that this place is an echo chamber of right wing ideologues whoreshopping at feet of the Donald. An Echo chamber as you say. Things aren’t always nice around here. There have been some epic flame wars.

You seem caught up still in Left-right paradigm that you learned when you took your Soc degree. For fuck sakes man if you want some respect around here, don’t be a tard like Cubfuckwad, shake off the chains of that binary you seem to embrace. The old ways of looking at world won’t work anymore.

Either you are are whore for Wall Street and the Military Industrial Complex or you are a person of free of slot you have been assigned.

Take your pick.

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Anonymous
Anonymous
June 17, 2016 7:39 am

Doug,

Your post would indicate why you were.

bb
bb
June 17, 2016 8:42 am

I have been driving the same Toyota Tacoma since 1998 when I bought it new.459,000+ miles on the engine so far.Still runs very well. Insurance is on only 400 a year.

However , my commercial truck payment is 3400 a month+ 400+ per month insurance =3800 a month just to work .I do get a tax break but it only lasts 3 years.

Hey Meathead , any ideas on how I can upgrade ?????

Anonymous
Anonymous
June 17, 2016 9:01 am

Things to think about

You can buy a lot of gas for 400 a month, it makes no sense to trade to a higher gas mileage vehicle for the sole purpose of using less gas.

Likewise, you can do a whole lot of repairs for a whole lot less than 400 a month over 3 or 4 years, and if you keep things fixed as they need to instead of letting them slide you will avoid a situation where the vehicle is not worth the cost to repair it for a very long time (my 2 vehicles are 36 and 26 years old and both fully serviceable and look decent as well).

A consideration when deciding whether to buy or fix, think of the other things you would be able to do with the money you spend on a new vehicle that you wouldn’t spend on keeping your current vehicle fully serviceable. Sometimes one makes sense sometimes the other depending on your financial status.

JIMSKI
JIMSKI
June 17, 2016 9:37 am

I have been in the auto industry ( and aircraft ) for 30 years. The number one thing owners need to understand is the importance of maintenance.

I have driven 9 vehicles to over 250k. I have many customers with 400k on the odometer.

KEEP THE FLUIDS CLEAN!

I have never repaired or replaced anything with the word pump in the name. No water pumps no power steering pumps not even a washer pump.

Buy the highest quality tires you can. a GREAT tire will make for a great story when your kid is old a cheap tire kills kids.

Do not ignore warning lights or strange noises.

If your mechanic ever says “that yellow light don’t mean nothing ignore it” find a new mechanic.

Tommy
Tommy
June 17, 2016 10:01 am

bb….$3,400? You’re getting horse fucked dude. Go to Fitzgerald and get a new glider with no emissions bullshit (meaning a pre -08 engine or so) and you can pick a Pete, KW, or whatever. Even a glider loaded with every option will top out at around $180 or so.

Fiatman60
Fiatman60
June 17, 2016 11:46 am

Bang on JIMSKI!!!!!

The number one cause of mechanical problems is fluid failure. Vehicles that make it over 250K were well maintained!! period!! Get the owner’s manual out and read the maintenance schedule!!
Change ALL fluids per that schedule! All fluids break down over time (constantly being heated and cooled)

bb
bb
June 17, 2016 12:06 pm

Tommy , saw one recently and they wanted a 110,000 for it .I paid 125,000 for my 2016 Volvo last year.Not sure what you mean about getting fucked.

What is your understanding of a glider kit .I understand the emissions bullshit .Plus the one I looked at was a 2003 but only had a 300,000 mile warranty. My Volvo has 450,000 mile warranty .

What do you mean top out at 180.? Honest questions.

Full Retard
Full Retard
June 17, 2016 12:50 pm

Doug couldn’t stand that Clammy would get her own article. Maybe you can write one for Dougey the Dung Beetle. Or we could dedicate Stucky’s Sweet Smelling Shit article to Doug.

Good article, BTW.

Rob in Nova Scotia
Rob in Nova Scotia
June 17, 2016 1:22 pm

IS

Good Advice about the cars. Jimski is correct as well about following maintenance schedule. Changing oil and other fluids at recommended intervals is inexpensive and will keep car on road for years. Where I live we deal with rust so undercoating vehicle annually is a must as well.

Anonymous
Anonymous
June 17, 2016 1:56 pm

A dealer is the last place you want to go when broke and desperate. Craig’s list is where its at.

Broke people should look for an unfashionable car that Grandma bought new ten years back.

For extra savings go to Florida and find yourself a used Lincoln Town Car or Mercury Grand Marquis. Geezers take great care of the cars, drop dead or lose their license, and their families sell them off depressing prices.

If you do not drive far, ignore fuel economy and go for lowest purchase price.

Full Retard
Full Retard
June 17, 2016 2:23 pm

Maybe it is but when you hear of folks getting robbed or killed responding to a CL ad…

A person I know responded to a CL ad for a room rental. It turns out the crazy woman was running a scam, collected rent and deposit then promptly ‘evicted’ the victim on some flimsy excuse – she said she’s allergic to perfumes and any deodorizers like febreeze.

Tommy
Tommy
June 17, 2016 4:26 pm

New loaded glider kits, check them out – let me know what you think. I know of a fleet that is going that way over new, which is really saying something.

https://fitzgeraldgliderkits.com/

artbyjoe
artbyjoe
June 17, 2016 6:34 pm

if you live where it is cold and wet in the winter, buy your replacement car in January. car prices cycle like a sine wave during the year. highest in the summer, cheapest in the winter. nothing like a day with 3 inches of snow on the ground for car shopping.

Westcoaster
Westcoaster
June 17, 2016 7:05 pm

Stay away from used car lots altogether unless you want to fork over an extra 30-50%, plus if you’re following this advice, keep in mind many used car lots are actually in the finance, not the auto business. They’ll try to set the hook in you for buy-here pay-here endless payments at 35% or higher interest.

What you should do is do a little online research for the type of vehicle you need, then drill down to the readily available reliability data on that particular type of vehicle. I’ve personally had great experience with Toyotas, Buicks, Olds, and Fords. Avoid high-end or Italian cars, Chrysler products (except their vans are good) and early S. Korean vehicles. Early Hyundai’s were crap.

If you look and pay attention, you can find a vehicle for under $3,000 with less than 125k on the clock and lots of useful miles and years left. Bonus points for buying from the original owner since they probably followed maintenance. Get a Carfax to verify the miles before making the deal. One more detail; if you’re in a state where the tags go with the car, make sure the title/registration is clear and up to date. I wouldn’t buy a used car with a paper tag.

bb
bb
June 17, 2016 9:30 pm

Tommy , they are really nice and not having to worry about emissions is a big plus. Since I bought my Volvo I have been in several . I wish I would have done more research before I bought my truck. Good truck so far but only got 212 ,000 + miles on engine.No emissions problems either for now but I have been warned. My warranty doesn’t cover emissions parts so if it fails I will have to pay out of pocket for repairs.

Llpoh
Llpoh
June 17, 2016 10:03 pm

When bb’s credit is destroyed by failing to pay for his hospital stay, his days of new truck purchases on credit may be over.

Re cars – always drive the least expensive car your ego will allow. I like new cars, but I have never needed a new car. Need and want are different things.

Old cars can run forever if you fix them and maintain them.